Kitchen worktop calculator

Worktop area and lengths from your runs, in 600, 620 or 900 mm, with the mitre allowance an L-shaped kitchen needs, an upstand or splashback, and an optional cost. The order rounds up to whole stock lengths, because that is how a worktop is sold.

Your measurements

Waste and tolerance preset

These buttons change the waste and tolerance defaults further down, and nothing else. Every figure stays visible in its box and you can type over any of them. They are rules of thumb for a typical job — assumptions, not measurements of yours.

  • DIY figures assume 5% extra length: stock cut on site, with a spare allowance in case of a mis-cut.
  • Trade figures assume no extra length: runs measured off the carcasses and cut once.

The boxes still hold the site defaults. Pick a preset, or type your own figures.

Worktop runs
Metres, measured along the wall from the corner to the end of the unit run. Always measure to the corner, not to the first unit — the worktop reaches into the corner.
Metres. Leave blank for a single straight run. An L-shaped kitchen is two separate lengths of worktop with a joint at the corner, not one bent piece.
Depth is fixed by the board, not by the kitchen. 600 mm suits a standard 600 mm base unit; 900 mm is for a bar you sit at, which needs a support leg or a panel at the free end.
Joint at the corner
A mitre hides a wall that is not square, but a 45° cut across the worktop consumes a full depth of length at each end — 600 mm per end on a 600 mm top. A butt joint takes no extra length.
%. Left at 0 by default: worktop is cut to the wall, and a sink or hob cut-out takes no length at all. Raise it only if you want a margin against a miscut, or if you are pricing a stone or resin top by area.
Upstand or splashback
Sold in 3 m lengths, cut from the same range as the worktop. An upstand finishes the joint between top and wall; a 600 mm splashback only earns its place behind a hob or a sink.
Price (optional)
Stone and resin worktops are usually quoted by area; laminate and timber by the length. The cost is worked out on the stock lengths you actually buy.
£, per square metre or per linear metre, whichever you chose above. Leave blank if you do not want a cost.
Worktop layout with the runs, mitre and cut-outs A kitchen worktop in plan: a straight run with a second run at right angles, the mitre or butt joint marked at the corner, a sink and a hob cut-out, and the upstand line along the wall. Fill the form in and the layout redraws with your own run lengths, depth and stock lengths. Worktop layout — runs, joints, cut-outssinkhobupstandFirst runSecond runWorktop comes in whole stock lengths, so each run is its own cut pieceA 45° mitre eats a full depth of length at each end; a butt joint does not
Worktop layout: each run is a separate cut piece, with the corner joint, the sink and hob cut-outs and the upstand line. It redraws to your own kitchen as you fill the form in.

Results

Fill in every measurement above and your results will appear here.

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How the worktop calculator works

Measure every run the same way: along the wall, to the corner. An L-shaped kitchen is not one long worktop bent round a corner — it is two separate lengths, each cut square, meeting at a joint. That is why the calculator asks for a second run and why it counts each run as its own board. A 3 m run and a 2 m leg is 5 m of kitchen frontage, but it is never 5 m of worktop off one board.

The mitre allowance is the part people miss. A mitred corner looks the best of the two joints and hides a wall that is a few degrees out of square, but the 45° cut across the end of the worktop removes a triangle of material the full depth of the top. On a 600 mm worktop that is 600 mm of length consumed at each end of the joint — 1.2 m on the job — which is exactly why a mitred L so often has to jump up a stock length. A butt joint, where one run simply dies into the other, needs no extra length at all.

Worktop is sold in stock lengths, not by the metre off a roll, and 3 m is the length most UK merchants carry, with 4 m in many ranges. So each cut piece takes the shortest board that covers it, and a run longer than the longest board has to be joined. The waste allowance is left at 0% on purpose: you cut worktop to the wall, and a sink or hob cut-out is made inside the board, so it takes no extra length. The offcuts are already in the order — the calculator tells you how many square metres of spare the stock lengths contain, so you can see whether a margin for a miscut is already covered.

Depth, upstands and the details that decide the finish

Depth is a property of the board you buy, not something you cut off: 600 mm is the standard UK worktop depth for a 600 mm base unit, 620 mm is the deeper trade carcass with a little more front overhang, and 900 mm is a breakfast bar or peninsula, which wants a leg or an end panel carrying the front edge rather than a base unit underneath.

An upstand of 100–150 mm finishes the joint where the worktop meets the wall and is normally cut from the same range so the colour matches. A splashback is the same idea at 600 mm high, and it only earns its keep behind a hob, a sink or a range where the wall really does take splashes. If you are tiling, skip both — but keep the worktop a few millimetres off the wall to allow for the tile and adhesive, or the top will have to come back off.

Keep any joint at least 100 mm clear of a sink or hob aperture, and leave the cut-outs to whoever fits the worktop: a router jig and a support batten are worth more here than anywhere else in the kitchen. Finally, allow the worktop to sit in the room for 48 hours before cutting and fitting, especially a timber or solid-wood top, which moves with the room's humidity.

Worktop FAQs

How much worktop do I need for an L-shaped kitchen?

Measure both runs to the corner and add them: a 3 m run plus a 2 m leg is 5 m of kitchen frontage. But an L is cut as two separate lengths, not one, and a mitred corner needs an extra 600 mm on each piece for the cut — a 3.6 m piece and a 2.6 m piece, which come off a 4 m length and a 3 m length. That is 7 m of stock for 5 m of kitchen, and the offcuts are what pay for the corner.

Should I mitre the corner or butt the joint?

A mitre looks better, hides a wall that is a few degrees out of square, and keeps the grain running diagonally through the corner — but it costs a full worktop depth of length at each end, so 1.2 m extra on a 600 mm top, and it has to be cut accurately and pulled up hard with mitre bolts and adhesive. A butt joint uses no extra length at all and is the usual choice for a cheaper laminate top, where the join is small enough to hide behind a corner unit.

What depth is a standard kitchen worktop?

600 mm is the standard UK worktop depth and matches a 600 mm base unit carcass with a small overhang at the front. 620 mm is the deeper trade carcass, giving roughly 20 mm more usable surface, and 900 mm is a breakfast bar or peninsula — deep enough to sit at, and it needs a support leg at the free end rather than a base unit underneath.

Do worktops come in a 4 m length?

3 m is the length most UK merchants stock, with 4 m available in many ranges — so ask before you measure up, because it changes the order completely. A 5 m straight run cannot be bought as one piece at either length: it needs two 4 m lengths, one of which is cut down, and the surplus is 3 m of spare worktop. Where a run is over 4 m it is usually cheaper to shorten the kitchen with a taller unit than to pay for the second length.

Do I need an upstand or a splashback?

Not if you are tiling, but an upstand is the neatest way to finish the joint where the worktop meets the wall. An upstand is 100–150 mm high and a splashback is the same material at 600 mm; both are sold in 3 m lengths and are cut from the same run, so a 2.4 m run at 100 mm is 0.24 m² and one 3 m length. A splashback only earns its place behind a hob, a sink or a range where the wall takes splashes.

How much extra should I allow for sink and hob cut-outs?

None for the length. A cut-out is made inside the worktop, so it takes no extra metres — that is why this calculator leaves the waste allowance at 0% by default. What the cut-outs do need is room and support: keep any joint at least 100 mm clear of a sink or hob aperture, and check the fitting instructions, because most hobs need 50 mm of worktop at each end and a hob or sink cut-out in a laminate top wants a heat-resistant mat under the hot pan.

Regs & planning for this calculator

Worktop runs are constrained by clearance first and by the worktop itself second.