Tile calculator

How many boxes of tiles a wall or floor needs, plus the adhesive, grout and spacers that go with them — from your surface size, the tile size, the joint width and the cutting waste you are allowing.

Your measurements

Waste and tolerance preset

These buttons change the cutting waste default further down, and nothing else. The figure stays visible in its box and you can type over it. They are rules of thumb for a typical job — assumptions, not measurements of yours.

  • DIY figures assume 10% cutting waste: measured once, cut by hand, no spare box.
  • Trade figures assume 5% cutting waste: a set-out job with a wet cutter and a measured tile.

The box still holds the site default. Pick a preset, or type your own figure.

Surface to tile
Metres. The longer side of the wall or floor. An L-shaped floor is two rectangles — run each one through and add the results together.
Metres. Measure the width in two places and take the larger figure — a wall that is out of square by 20 mm shows up in the last column of tiles.
Millimetres, as the box states it — 300x300, 600x300, 600x600. The tile size decides how many whole tiles the job needs and how many joint crossings the spacers go in.
Joint and box
Millimetres of grout joint between the tiles. 2–3 mm suits most wall tiles and rectified porcelain; 3–5 mm suits a floor tile. The joint is what the grout fills, so it changes both the set-out and the grout quantity.
m² on the box label, because that is what a box covers — not how many tiles it holds. It varies with the tile size and the range: most boxes cover roughly 1 m², large-format ranges often more, and mosaics are sold by the sheet. Read the box you are buying; the 1 m² here is a planning estimate, nothing more.
% extra for the cuts. Every tile cut at an edge, a door, a socket or a pipe consumes a whole tile from the box. 10% is the cautious figure for a straight lay in one room; a diagonal or herringbone layout wants 15%.

Results

Fill in every measurement above and your results will appear here.

Tile plan with the tiles set out on the module A wall or floor in plan with the tiles set out on a grid of tile plus joint: a spacer sits at every crossing where four tiles meet, the tiles at the edges are cut to fit, and the surface is measured length by width. Fill the form in and the plan redraws with your own tile size, joint width, set-out grid and box count. Tile plan — tiles on the module300 mm tile + 3 mm jointcut tiles at the edgesa spacer where four tiles meetSurface lengthSurface widthWhole tiles from the surface area and the tile size, then boxesBoxes, adhesive, grout and spacers all come off these figures
Tile plan: the set-out grid of tile plus joint, a spacer at every crossing, the cut tiles at the edges, and the surface measured length by width. It redraws to your own figures as you fill the form in.

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How the tile calculator works

Tiles are sold by the box, not by the tile, and a box is not a fixed area: it holds a number of tiles, so what it covers depends on how big they are. That is why the calculator takes the tile size and the box coverage as separate figures. The tile size tells it how many whole tiles the job needs; the box coverage tells it how many boxes to buy. The m² figure is printed on every box label, so read it off the one you are buying rather than trusting a default — a box of 300 × 300 mm tiles and a box of 600 × 600 mm tiles do not cover the same floor.

Start with the surface. A wall or a floor is length × width, and an L-shape is two rectangles measured separately and added together. Then add the cutting waste: every tile cut at an edge, a door, a socket or a pipe comes out of a whole tile, so the order rounds up twice — once for the whole tiles the cuts consume, and again for the box.

Cutting waste is the figure that catches people out

Ten per cent is the cautious figure for a straight lay in a single room, and it is the default here. Set the tiles diagonally, run a herringbone, or work around a lot of obstacles, and 15% is a better allowance. If the tiles are a clearance line or a shade lot you cannot buy again, allow 15% and keep a spare box: matching a batch later is usually impossible, and a repair ten years from now depends on having one.

The calculator rounds up, always. You cannot buy two-thirds of a box, and a part tile is still a whole tile off the box, so an order that lands on 13.2 boxes is bought as 14. The spare that leaves is normal — the offcut box does the next job, a repair, or goes in the loft.

Adhesive, grout and spacers

Adhesive, grout and spacers are the three things that stop a job halfway. As a planning estimate, allow roughly 4 kg of adhesive per square metre at a 3 mm bed, which is about 5 m² from a 20 kg bag. A deeper bed, a large-format tile or an uneven wall all take more, so treat that as a starting point and check the bag.

Grout is different: it fills the joint, so the quantity depends on the tile size, the joint width and how deep the joint is filled rather than on the floor area alone. Small tiles and wide joints mean much more grout; large-format tiles and tight joints mean less. Buy a bag more than you think you need — running out halfway up a wall is worse than a spare bag in the cupboard.

Spacers sit where four tiles meet, so count the crossings inside the grid rather than the tiles themselves. A 4 m × 3 m floor in 300 mm tiles is 14 across and 10 down, which is 117 crossings: one bag of 250 does the room with plenty to lose.

Tile FAQs

How many tiles do I need for a wall or floor?

Divide the surface area by the area of one tile. A 4 m × 3 m floor is 12 m², and a 300 × 300 mm tile covers 0.09 m², so 12 ÷ 0.09 is about 133 tiles before any allowance. Add the cutting waste, because every edge cut consumes a whole tile: at 10% that is 147 tiles. The calculator does this for you and rounds up, because a part tile is bought as a whole tile.

How much extra should I allow for cutting waste?

About 10% for a straight lay in one room, which is the default here and the cautious figure. A diagonal or herringbone layout takes nearer 15%, and a room with a lot of obstacles, or a tile you may not be able to buy again, is worth 15% too. Keep one full box back on a large order for later repairs.

How much tile adhesive do I need?

As a planning estimate, allow about 4 kg per square metre for a 3 mm bed, so a 20 kg bag covers roughly 5 m² — a 12 m² floor is about three bags. That is an estimate only: a deeper bed, a large-format tile or an uneven wall all take more, and the maker's bag states what it covers. Always check the product data before ordering.

How much grout do I need?

Grout fills the joint, so the amount depends on the tile size, the joint width and how deep the joint is filled, not on the floor area alone. For a 300 × 300 mm tile with 3 mm joints, the joints are about 2% of the surface, which works out at roughly 3.3 kg of grout for 12 m². Mosaic tiles have far more joint and take much more grout; large-format tiles take less.

How many tile spacers do I need?

A spacer sits where four tiles meet, so count the crossings inside the grid rather than the tiles. A 4 m × 3 m floor set out in 300 mm tiles is 14 tiles across and 10 down, which is 13 × 9 = 117 crossings. Spacers are sold in bags of 250 as a rule, so one bag normally does a room — and you will lose some.

Why does the coverage of a box of tiles vary?

Because a box holds a number of tiles, not a fixed area. A box of 300 × 300 mm tiles often covers around 1 m², while a box of 600 × 600 mm tiles holds fewer, larger tiles and covers a different area again. Read the m² figure on the box you are buying and type it into the calculator rather than relying on the default.

Regs & planning for this calculator

Tiling is decorating, but three rules on the site's reference library bite on the room it happens in.